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MARCH | APRIL 2013
Q:
Hey Jack!
I’ve always loved brisket, but I’ve never
cooked it. Can you help?
Of course!
Q:
First, what exactly is a brisket?
The brisket is a large, whole cut of beef, one of the major
“primal” cuts on a beef steer. It’s located on the forequarter,
below the chuck; essentially, it’s the cow’s breast and the
lower chest muscles.
Q:
What makes brisket different from those other cuts?
Is it good for steaks?
Brisket is known to be high in flavor, but also high in fat and
connective tissue. If you were to try and carve a brisket up into
steaks for the grill, you’re in for a disappointment. Quickly
searing a steak-size cut of brisket like you would a ribeye or
fillet would result in an unappetizingly chewy meal.
Q:
So what’s the best way to cook a brisket, then?
It’s all about “low and slow” with this cut, meaning cooking it
at a low temperature for a long time,
Ask Chef Jack:
ALL ABOUT BRISKET
usually a few hours, at least. This way, the connective tissues
break down into gelatin, which helps keep your meat nice and
moist, and at the same time results in fork-tender meat in a
rich, fragrant sauce.
Brisket is enjoyed throughout the world, and there are many
different ways to prepare it. A good winter favorite is to
season simply with salt and pepper, sear the outside of the
brisket in a hot skillet, then braise it in a dutch oven or slow
cooker with root vegetables (carrots, onions, celery, potatoes,
whatever you’re in the mood for) to make a classic pot roast.
You can also add orange or pineapple juice to the braise, as
well - the acidic acid will help make your meat even that
much more tender.
Another great way to use brisket is in an Asian-style noodle
soup, like Vietnamese
pho
. Sliced very thinly and added to
very hot broth, it will quickly cook and add a nice, beefy
flavor to the dish.
And, of course, there’s always barbecue. Texans swear by
sliced BBQ brisket, cooked very slowly over oak or hickory
smoke for twelve or even fourteen hours.
Q:
What should I look for in
a brisket?
Just like a good steak, you
want a deep red color and
a healthy amount of fat
marbled throughout. You’ll
also notice a big hunk of
fat at one end. Make sure
not to cut that off before
you cook! It’s called the
“fat cap” and keeping it
on will ensure that your
finished brisket is basted
and beautifully moist.
WHAT’S COOKING ON MY IPOD
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Jack Treuting, Culinary Director
photo by
Frank Aymami